There are so many advantages to raised beds we really should consider them for any garden.  Whether you are beginning a new garden or wish to improve an established garden, raised beds will make your garden more productive, more convenient, and raised beds do very well in the hilly, rocky, weedy, cool, northern New England environment.  Let’s look at the benefits and explore a couple ways to build raised beds.

While building raised beds will require some extra effort in the beginning, they will save you labor later plus all the benefits are well worth the effort.  In case you need convincing, here is a summary of the benefits:

• Deeper soil for better root growth   (bigger, healthier plants)
• Better drainage in wet, clayey soils
• Faster soil warming in the spring
• Efficient use of your planting space   (grow more in limited spaces)
• Reduced soil erosion on slopes
• Improved soil structure and aeration
• No need to ever rototill, dig, or plow the garden   (earthworms do that work)
• Creates an attractive garden appearance
• High raised beds are more accessible  (less bending)

Building raised beds is work, but there are several ways that you can choose from to suit your preferences and circumstances.  Here are a couple.  Since you will never step on the beds be sure they are no wider than twice your arm reach, usually about 4-5 feet across.  My favorite way to establish a new bed on top of grass or a field is without any tilling or sod removal.  Simply mow or weed whack the vegetation as short as possible in the area you have designated for your new bed(s).  Cover that shaved ground with corrugated cardboard or 10 layers of newspaper and shovel your compost/soil mixture (50:50) onto the bed.  No side walls are necessary and you can make your bed 6-12 inches deep.  Few weeds can penetrate that paper barrier from below and will become part of your valuable soil organic matter.  Earthworms and beneficial microbes will flourish and the bed will become one with the ground over the first summer. 

The new raised bed can be planted with seeds or transplants on the same day it is made!  If you’re doing multiple beds leave a walkway space of about 2-3 ft between each bed.  Walkways can be mowed grass or covered with paper and wood chips.  Depending on the size of the mature plants you can plant 1 to 4 rows lengthwise in each bed, just remember that you NEVER step on the bed so the soil will remain loose.  No rototilling or digging will be necessary, ever.  Weeds will be controllable, and the bed only needs added compost annually to keep its depth and fertility.

If your garden area is relatively small and you prefer an organized look then bed walls work well.  You can buy ready made kits for beds from sources like Vermont’s own Gardeners’ Supply that are easy to set up but are an expense.  You can build your own bed walls from lumber, concrete blocks, or stones.  Do not use pressure treated lumber as the preservatives may leach out into your soil and contaminate your plants and food over time.  Cedar is a very durable wood but expensive. Locally available Locust is very good because it lasts longer (5-10 years) while fir and pine are also useable but have a shorter life (3-5 years) in contact with moist soil.  I’ve had success with 2” x 12” locust (see images below) but 2″ x 8” or 2″ x 10” will work. 

It’s not necessary to line the beds with a plastic weed barrier but If you have a problem with voles (not moles) you can line the bottom of the bed with ¼ inch wire mesh folded up and stapled or nailed to the wooden sides to keep them from sneaking in from below.  Fill the beds with a 50:50 mixture of topsoil and compost and you’re ready to plant.  There are several good DIY videos and instructions online if you want some building help. 

An alternative approach, called “Hugelkultur” from Germany, is to first half-fill the bed boxes (or the open beds described previously) with old rotting logs (that old firewood you never used), branches, and/or wood chips before filling with compost/soil.   This provides bulk to the beds plus a slow release of organic matter and nutrients for years.  Do not use black locust or black walnut, they are toxic to other plants and decay too slowly.

Above left: Raised beds filled with a soil-compost mixture. Right: kitchen garden beds with cut flowers and herbs.

Do you have a different kind of raised bed?  Please share your experience in the comments below.