In the previous topic I described some of the early pruning and fruit tree protection that can be done and it’s still not too late for that. Despite recent weather we are about 2 weeks ahead of last year so it’s not too early to get started growing.  I also hope you will begin keeping your own garden journal as described last week, it a great way to record all the positive things you’re doing so next year you’ll know when to do them again.

Start your seeds.  Now is a great time to get your favorite garden veggies & flowers started.  There are many ways to start seeds successfully; these are my suggestions but let me know your best ideas. Most annual plants (tomatoes, peppers, etc.) need about 6-8 weeks of growth to be in best condition for transplanting in May-June so let’s get them going.  Early broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, zinnias, marigolds, etc. can be started in mid April.  Plants that only need a 4 week head start (cukes, squash, greens, etc.) can be started later.

First things first.  Your seedlings have 4 basic needs to become healthy plants ready for transplant: 1) warmth, 2) soil, 3) light, & 4) moisture.  Containers can be almost anything, small pots, 4/6-packs saved from previous purchases, paper/plastic cups, or open trays.  It’s Important that they will last for at least 6-8 weeks of watering and can drain.  Peat pots & cow pots are biodegradable but tend to dry out so you have to watch them.  Place your containers in a water tight tray so you can water from the bottom (not the top) and catch surplus water.

Soil. Seeds will grow best is a very light soilless seed starting mix.  I don’t recommend standard “potting mixes” or garden soil (all too heavy).  Moisten the dry mix well in a bucket several hours before filling your containers so it’s thoroughly moist and isn’t so fluffy & dusty.  Fill your containers inside a buck or tray (less messy) by gently packing in the soil with your thumbs and fill so the soil is level with the top (depressions will hold moisture that promotes damp off mold).  Plant seeds according to the package instructions (usually ¼ in. deep).  I plant 2 seeds per cell/pot when using last years saved seeds with lower germination rates.  Extra seedling can be culled or moved to empty spaces.

Light. If you have enough space in south facing, sunny windows you can use that but additional light will produce better growth.  Florescent fixtures with cool white or full spectrum grow light bulbs work well.  Newer LED fixtures are even better but still pricey.  As bright as they seem, florescent fixtures are much weaker that natural sunlight so need to be within 4-6 inches of the plants.  An adjustable plant stand is really useful and here is a simple design. I can give you a very economical (less than $20) DIY design using PVC pipe that accommodates 4 full large flats, just ask in the Comments below or use Contact Us in the top bar menu.  (See the image below) Seedlings will need 14-16 hours of light per day so a timer is helpful. 

Heat. Unless your home is kept very warm, it is really helpful (but not required) to have a source of warmth under your containers for vigorous germination.  Heat mats for germination keep the soil about 20 degrees warmer that the air and are a worthwhile investment.  See image below. They are available from most garden centers, cost about $25, and last several years with care (don’t fold them!).  Your electric heating pad for sore muscles is probably much too warm and not water resistant so not recommended.  Your mat can be removed after full germination has occurred (usually 7-10 days) and used for the next set of seeds.

Water.  If your soil mix was well watered you probably won’t need to water again until the seeds emerge.  The easiest way to keep the soil moist and warm during germination is to place a clear plastic cover over your trays.  Once you see about half the seeds up you should remove your cover so the soil surface can dry out periodically.  I like to water young seedlings from the bottom, letting the water soak up from below to keep the surface from being so wet that surface molds (damp off) get started and can kill the young seedlings. 

Lastly, but very important… be sure to LABEL all of your plants!  Things get moved around and it’s hard to tell what is what 2 months later.  Of course, enter all your plantings (dates, varieties, how many, etc.) in your garden journal.

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