Seed Saving & Storage
Seed Saving. Gardeners and farmers have traditionally saved seeds from their favorite plants because we know that is the best way to have the best varieties and strains adapted to your local conditions. Seeds contain the genetics of the parent plants and if you have a favorite heirloom tomato, bean or lettuce that does well for you why not save some seeds for next year? Besides, they are free and abundant right now! Seed Savers Exchange has been promoting seed saving for many years and offers very practical advice for beginners to get started.
Not all plants lend themselves to the home seed saver. I recommend the “self-pollinating” plants (beans, peas, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, dill, arugula, sunflowers, & parsley) are mostly foolproof. I would avoid insect/wind pollinated plants (corn, squashes, cucumbers, pumpkins, & melons) because they are considered “promiscuous” as they cross pollinate, and most offspring will not be the same as the parents. Hybrids (F1) varieties are also in this category and are not reliable for seed savers. If you really want to learn more about the wonders of seed production and saving then I recommend the book The Seed Garden.
Seed savers divide seeds into “dry seeds” and “wet seeds” because they use different methods to prepare them for storage. Dry seeds (lettuce, arugula, beans, & peas) are easiest because we simply need to let the seed pod or bean mature fully until it turns yellow-brown and dries on the plant. Before it pops open collect the pods/beans for more drying before storing. Even though these seeds may appear dry, they require thorough drying, so they don’t get moldy in storage over winter. After collecting seeds (get more than you need so you can share some) lay them out on newspaper in an airy, protected location for a couple weeks. Beans & peas especially needs extra drying time. Once dry you can separate off the pods or chaff by gently blowing it away from heavier seeds. This is an excellent use for those neglected lettuce plants that went to seed. Don’t worry about small bits of debris in the seeds.
Wet seeds (heirloom tomatoes & peppers) are removed from over-ripe fruits to be sure the seeds are mature. Pick the most desirable plants for your seeds (earliest, biggest, high yielding, pest & disease free, etc.) so you select the best for next year. Cut open the fruits and scoop out the biggest seeds for drying. Spread them out on a baking tray for drying at room temperature. Gently mix them every couple days to keep them separated as much as possible. Once they’ve dried completely, collect them for storage. Remember that hybrid seeds will not breed true so are generally not worth saving.
Storage containers can be anything that will protect the seeds from moisture, heat, mice, light, etc. Glass jars, empty medicine bottles, zip lock bags (in a larger glass jar), etc. Most important: LABEL every container/bag/bottle with the plant name, variety, and date stored. Keep your saved seed (plus leftovers that you purchased this year) in a cool, dry, dark place over the winter. (Not in the refrigerator or freezer.) You now have a free & easy head start on next year’s garden!