The dry, warm weather of September has helped gardens continue to grow and produce nicely as long as you were able to supply needed water. Weeds, of course, are happily growing and making seeds for next year so they need to be removed and used to make fertilizer. Speaking of next year, there is a new online program to help you plan for a more sustainable landscape called Plan It Wild that I’d like to introduce below. Also, let’s remember that the best way to a healthy, productive garden is through healthy, fertile soil. October is a great time to get soil tested and start building soil fertility for next year.  A great way to improve soil fertility is with compost and “weed fertilizer” that we can make at home, for free. Finally, as the leaves fall let’s use this great, free resource of nature as a soil builder by shredding or composting instead of raking & bagging.

If you would like to change your lawn dominated landscape into a rich, biodiverse environment with enhanced habitat diversity, more natural beauty, and easier yard care the Plan It Wild approach might help you.  You can begin by completing the free online site evaluation to get your Wildr score for an idea of your yard’s assets and needs for improvement. This self-assessment was developed with help from our own Vermont Center for Ecostudies.  The results provide you with a summary of your features and basic recommendations for improving your landscape, plenty of food for thought for the coming winter months!

Soil Fertility    Fall is the best time to build soil but it’s important to know what your soil condition is before adding anything.  The key soil characteristics gardeners care about are soil pH (acidity), soil nutrients, and organic matter content.  All of these are vital to healthy, productive soil and can be best improved before winter so everything will be ready in the spring.

Step 1: do a soil test to learn the health status of your soil.  The test results will tell you what amendments will be most effective.  Do not assume that adding some lime and fertilizer will work; it could be counter-productive and wasteful.  I don’t recommend using the inexpensive little soil test kits sold in stores.  Soil testing is best done by a soil lab because their methods are more accurate, and they provide specific recommendations for the plants you want to grow.

The University of Vermont testing lab offers a basic garden/lawn soil analysis for just $17 and includes pH, macronutrients, and other characteristics.  Download their order form and instructions HERE.  Send them about ½ cup of air-dried soil in a sealed plastic bag and the completed order form.  Results will come back by mail or by email within 1-2 weeks and provide recommendations for what and how much to apply.  Follow their instructions for How to Collect a Soil Sample, very important.

Step 2:  Soils in New England tend to be acidic (we have acid rain!) and usually benefit from the application of agricultural limestone or wood ash.  After you have the results of your soil test (step 1) you will know whether lime is called for, or not.  Soil pH refers to the acidity of the soil.  A pH of 7.0 is neutral, above 7.0 is alkaline, and below 7.0 is acidic.  This is important because if the pH is too low or too high the plant can’t get the nutrients that are in the soil.  Most plants do best in slightly acidic soil, between 6.2 and 6.5.  A common sign of acidic soil (low pH) is leaf “chlorosis” or yellowing.

Fall is the best time to apply limestone to gardens and lawns because the change of soil pH will take several months.  Limestone applied now, if needed, with be well incorporated into the soil and have raised the pH by spring planting time.

Do not assume limestone will always help; there are two cases in which lime applications will have poor results:  1) the soil pH is already above 6.5 and raising it higher will reduce the availability of nutrients to your plants.  2) The plants that you are growing prefer acidic soil with a pH below 5.5.  This includes blueberries, raspberries, elderberries, blackberries, rhododendrons, azaleas, holly, and most potatoes.

Step 3: Apply fertilizer, as called for by your soil test results.  As an organic gardener I favor the regular application of compost to garden soil. Compost provides rich organic matter, beneficial microbes, good amounts of phosphate and potassium.  Nitrogen is usually low in compost but can be supplemented with animal manures (composted chicken or cow manure is best), green manures (legumes such as beans, peas, & clover), alfalfa meal, and organic granular fertilizers.  Compost also acts as a great stabilizer of pH and will keep your soil acidity in the desirable range. 

Weed Fertilizer.  Do not stop weeding yet!  Weeds are now producing their flowers and seeds for next year’s generation. Weeds produce thousands of seeds per plant!  Do not allow weeds to go to seed in your garden, turn them into fertilizer!  Weeds are a rich source of mineral nutrients in a naturally balanced mix just right for your plants.  Here’s how:  1. Chop up enough weeds (leaves & roots) to fill a 5-gallon bucket, 2. Add a handful of mature compost or leaf mold, 3. Add enough water to fill up to 3 inches from the top, 4. Mix well and cover the bucket with its top or a board to keep out rain & critters.  This mix will begin fermenting and produce a rich “nutrient tea” full of minerals and beneficial bacteria for your garden soil.  After 2-3 weeks store the liquid in gallon jugs for next spring. Add the remaining solids to your compost. To use, dilute the tea 10 to 1 and pour onto your favorite shrubs, perennials and gardens.  Great weeds for this tea include dandelions, comfrey, stinging nettle, or any weed you have lots of. From the garden use carrot tops, bean/pea plants, and beet or radish greens.  Here is a good video to help you get started.

Got Leaves?  Make Compost!  Nature is now releasing leaves from trees to add fertility and build soil.  It is pretty amazing that plants produce their own food by photosynthesis and then feed the soil around them for all the beneficial fungi and bacteria that they partner with.  Compost those leaves into rich fertilizer instead of raking them.

Not doing compost?  Mower shred all those leaves in place right on your lawn.  Chopped up fine they will enrich your soil (no fertilizers needed!), add organic matter to hold moisture in dry spells, and suppress weeds.  It’s a win-win-win.