The end of May has brought almost ideal gardening weather, what a welcome change!  Although it’s been a bit dry for Vermont spring, it looks like a great time to get all those ready-to-go plants into their new homes for the summer.  It’s still a little early for some heat loving plants like basil, tomatoes, beans, artichokes, okra, & peppers, but almost everything else can move out.  Some adventuresome gardeners have already planted out their tomatoes and they might do well given this weather, but I’ll wait just a little longer.  Transplanting into the garden is a major change for plants and taking some care to minimize the trauma will help plants get through transplant shock smoother and carry on with their growth. 

A previous article (May 12) explained “hardening-off” and those principles will help the transition from indoor containers to outside conditions.  Using transplants, instead of direct seeding, provides plants with a head start and lets you better plan your spacing and garden organization, so don’t lose that advantage by sticking indoor grown plants directly into the sunshine without some adjustment time.  It’s great to be eager to get things going outside but a few simple precautions make life much easier for young plants.  It’s also a good idea to ask when you buy plants whether they have been hardened off already. 

Before transplanting anything be sure your soil is ready.  That does not necessarily mean any tilling or turning of soil is needed, or even desirable, because it’s not.  It does mean the soil should be as weed-free as possible.  You’ll never be 100% weed-free so stop trying!  Some gentle soil loosening (I use only a broad fork which doesn’t turn the soil upside down) and clearing spring weeds to reduce the competition for space, water, nutrients, and sunshine that your plants need.  Spring is also a good time to work in some mature compost (not fresh manure) to add organic matter and nutrients.  Compost is “mature” when you can no longer recognize the original ingredients or it’s full of earthworms.  The preferable time of day for transplanting is usually late afternoon (after 4 pm) on a calm day (wind dries your plants just as well as your laundry!) or on very cloudy days to reduce dehydration. 

Plants are best placed in the ground at the same depth as they were in their containers with the except of tomatoes (they go in deeper).  I do like to put in a small amount of Phosphate (rock or colloidal phosphate, bone meal, bone char, etc.) since this is the one nutrient that does not move down through the soil to the roots when applied on the surface.  Phosphate is slow release and will not injure the tender, young roots like Nitrate fertilizer can.  No Nitrate (N) fertilizer should go in the planting hole.

Once your plants are in the ground, they’ll need plenty of watering immediately and for a few days or more afterwards until they become established and growing.  This is a great time to offer them some liquid food in the form of fish emulsion in their water.  It’s organic and will release gradually so the plants can take it in over time.  Also, the fishy smell will repel deer and rabbits if that is a concern.  Given our wonderful warm, sunny weather some shade during the day would be good too. (Think sunscreen)  I use Agribon-19 row cover held up with wire hoops or ½ inch PVC pipe to allow some air flow but it does block the direct sun on tender leaves until they are growing strongly.  (available from Fenn Farmstead & Gardens in Mount Holly)  Anchored cardboard propped up over plants during mid-day will also do the trick. 

Transplanting is complete after some protection is provided against hungry critters that love those tender new plants for dinner.  I have voles (field mice) that can devour a whole row overnight so I sprinkle generous amounts of MoleMax (Bonide), a castor bean repellent, along the rows and it seems to keep them away, mostly.  Also recommended for deer, rabbits, and voles are products like Shake-Away (mint, rosemary, & cedar), and Plantskydd (blood meal) as repellents that are accepted as legally Organic.  The row cover used for shade also hides plantings from deer and insect pests so provides a double benefit.  Of course, full protection with a combination barrier & electric fence is best, but that will be another topic.

There will usually be a few plant failures, it’s hard to get 100% success with anything, so I like to keep a couple spares on reserve to replace those that go missing.  It’s nice to have a full row or bed growing.  Finally, since the soil is not fully warmed yet, it is too early to apply any organic mulch just yet.  That will come in mid-June to provide weed suppression, moisture retention, and soil building. 

What are your favorite transplant tips, tricks and secrets?  Please let us know in the Reply/Comments section below.